Kakadu South

When we were in the Northern Territory 2 years ago we spent a week at the World Heritage Listed Kakadu National Park. We based ourselves at Jabiru, the only township inside the park and explored all the central and northern parts. However with the southern entrance 150km from Jabiru we didn't get to see the southernmost attractions.

We decided to remedy that situation on our way back southwards, and have spent the last few days staying at the Mary River Roadhouse, just outside the southern entrance to Kakadu. Last time we were at Kakadu we were surprised that there was no entrance fee, with such a huge area to manage we expected there would have been some element of 'user pays'. Well the government has well and truly rectified that oversight - it now costs $25 per person for a 2 week park entrance pass. Being good citizens we duly bought a pass each at the roadhouse before setting off into the park, but there was no roadblock at the entrance and in the 2 days we spent in the park no-one looked at all interested in checking whether we had paid, so we suspect that a lot of the young tourist/backpacker crowd would probably not pay.

Our first stop was Gunlom, a big pool at the base of a waterfall. In the wet season it would undoubtedly be spectacular, this deep in the dry it is still flowing but with much diminished force. A strenuous half hour climb took us to the top of the waterfall, where the water flows through a series of beautiful rock pools before tumbling over the edge of the cliff. The last pool outlined against the horizon is a truly spectacular sight. We didn't do any swimming, but most visitors were taking the plunge (although not literally over the waterfall), it certainly looked inviting after the hard walk up.

We then did several walks at Yurmikmik. With no swimming on offer very few people visit this area, so we had it virtually to ourselves.

On the second day we did a lovely creekside walk at Maguk. Once again this walk ended in a plunge pool at the base of a waterfall, and many people were taking a dip, despite the signs warning that there may be crocodiles in the area. Admittedly, the local information did say that the rangers cleared out the crocodiles at the beginning of each dry season, so it should be safe, but it also said that crocodiles could possibly move in undetected at any time. Presumably it is a matter of all care but, hey, we warned you, so no responsibility.

We also did shortish walks at Gungurul and Bukbukluk, each ending in a lookout over the seemingly endless scrub that makes up the vast majority of the Kakadu area. All in all, we're satisfied that we've ticked off all the attractions that this famous park offers, although it would be interesting to come back in the wet season to see the rivers and waterfalls in full flood.