Finishing Off in Alice

We've had a very busy and active time in Alice Springs. Apart from our journeys to Chambers Pillar and Rainbow Valley, we've had multiple trips to the west of Alice Springs. If we'd planned our time a bit better we would probably have actually taken the van out to the far end of the West MacDonnells and based ourselves there for a few days, but we didn't think of that soon enough. As it is we've covered over 1,500 km in our 11 days here, which is an awful lot considering the amount of driving we did to get here from Darwin (and the amount we'll be doing after leaving here to head south to our next destination).

Although it looks like the remnants of volcanic action, Gosse Bluff is actually the remains of an impact crater from a comet that hit around 142 million years ago. The original crater must have been impressive indeed, even with the erosion that has occurred over that incredible amount of time the crater walls stand stark above the surrounding flat plains. Not surprisingly the crater is a deeply spiritual sacred site for the local Aborigines, and access is restricted to a couple of lookouts and a short walking track inside the crater walls. On the same day we also visited Redbank Gorge, doing the walk down the rocky and sandy creek bed to a permanent waterhole. A group of European backpackers headed down the walk just before us, when we arrived at the waterhole they were taking it in turns to leap into the waterhole (modestly attired in bikinis and bathers) then rush shrieking back to dry land. Even here in the red centre the water is barely above freezing, not a pleasant swimming spot even on the hottest days. The backpackers willingly informed us it was there first bathing chance for a couple of days, luckily we weren't there to swim, just look at the scenery.

Finke Gorge National Park is about 138 km west of Alice Springs. The last 16 km is a 4wd track that largely goes along the bed of the Finke River. The last 4 km of this track is so rough that it took us 20 minutes, but at the end is one of the wonders of central Australia - Palm Valley. This narrow canyon is home to a remnant population of cabbage tree palms and cycads, left over from a much wetter ancient time. The creek side walk leads beside the palm groves, then returns along the cliff edge, providing panoramic views across the palm trees. The rest of the park is more usual desert country, the other walk we did was beside the dry creek bed once it exited the canyon, and over typical red, sandy country.

Ormiston Gorge, at the western end of the MacDonnell Ranges, has an international reputation as a classic central Australian destination. The red cliffs, dry landscape and rugged countryside provide the quintessential red centre experience. We first did a short walk to a lookout with a beautiful ghost gum tree bravely clinging to the rock edge, then tackled the 7km circuit walk, through the ranges next to the gorge, then back through the middle of the gorge. The gorge portion was extremely tiring, involving not only slogging through deep sand, but scrambling over tumbled rocks and even at one stage wading through a freezing cold water hole. Luckily the water was less than knee high, apparently at some times it laps the crotch....

Apart from all the driving and walking, we've found some time in Alice to do some maintenance on the car and to have a couple of games of golf at the superb Alice Springs golf course. We now feel that we've 'done' this central Australian oasis, and have plenty of wonderful memories to take away.